Beginners guide to film photography

Welcome to our guide

If you’ve ever looked at an old family photo and thought, “There’s just something special about that look,” you’re already halfway there. Film photography isn’t complicated or exclusive — it’s just slower, more intentional, and kind of magical once you get the hang of it.

Why Try Film?

Digital is instant and convenient. Film makes you slow down. You don’t get a preview. You think a bit more before you press the shutter. And when the photos finally come back, there’s a real sense of satisfaction. The colours, the grain, the little imperfections — they feel alive in a way that digital often doesn’t.

Choosing Your First Camera

You don’t need anything fancy. In fact, the simpler the better when you’re starting out.

- Point-and-shoots are the easiest. Point, shoot, done. Great for travel and everyday life.
- SLR (the ones where you look through the lens) give you more control and usually better image quality. Many older ones are surprisingly affordable.
- Rangefinders are compact and quiet. A bit less common but lovely to use once you get used to them.

Don’t overthink the brand. Look for something that feels good in your hands and has a working light meter if possible. Many people start with a simple 35mm camera and never feel the need to upgrade.

Understanding Film Formats

Film comes in different physical sizes, and this is one of the first things to understand.

35mm  
This is by far the most common and beginner-friendly format. The film comes in metal canisters and gives you 24 or 36 exposures per roll. Almost every classic point-and-shoot, SLR, and rangefinder uses it. It’s widely available, relatively affordable, and easy to get developed and scanned. If you’re just starting, stick with 35mm.

Medium format (120 film)
This film is wider and comes on a spool rather than in a canister. It produces much larger negatives, which means finer detail and a different look. Cameras that use it (like older TLR cameras or some folding cameras) are usually bigger and a bit more involved to use. Great once you’ve got the hang of 35mm and want higher image quality.

110 film  
A smaller cartridge format popular in the 1970s and 80s. The cameras are tiny and pocketable, but the image quality is lower because the negatives are very small. Fun for casual shooting, though film can be harder to find these days.

APS (Advanced Photo System)
A 1990s format that came in plastic cartridges. It offered different print sizes and was easy to load, but it’s largely obsolete now. Film and developing options are limited.

Instant film 
Polaroid, Instax, and similar systems. You get a physical print minutes after taking the photo. It’s a completely different experience — more about the immediate fun than traditional film photography.

Large format
Sheets of film (usually 4x5 inches or bigger) used in view cameras. This is the deep end of film photography — slow, deliberate, and capable of incredible detail. Not where most people start.

Most beginners are happiest starting with 35mm. It’s the easiest to find, the most forgiving, and gives you the classic film experience without extra complications.

Loading the Film

This is the part that scares most beginners, but it’s straightforward once you’ve done it once or twice.

1. Open the camera back.
2. Place the film canister on the left.
3. Pull the leader across and slot it into the take-up spool.
4. Advance the film a little (usually by firing the shutter and winding) until it’s properly engaged.
5. Close the back and wind until the frame counter shows “1”.

If the rewind knob turns when you advance the film, you’re good. If it doesn’t, the film isn’t caught properly — open it up and try again (in the shade if possible).

Taking Photos

Most film cameras from the 80s and 90s have automatic or semi-automatic exposure. Many point-and-shoots do almost everything for you.

If your camera has manual controls, remember the basic relationship:
- Aperture controls how much light comes in (and depth of field).
- Shutter speed controls how long the light hits the film.
- ISO is fixed once the film is loaded.

On a sunny day with ISO 400 film, a good starting point is often around f/8 or f/11 and 1/250 or 1/500 second. Your light meter (if the camera has one) will guide you.

Focus carefully. On many cameras you’ll see a split image or microprism in the viewfinder that lines up when something is sharp. Take your time with that.

After the Roll

When the film is finished, rewind it carefully (most cameras have a rewind button or lever). Don’t force it. Then take it to a lab, or send it away by post. Many places now offer high-quality scans as well as prints.

Scanning is important if you want to share the photos digitally. A decent lab scan is usually enough when you’re starting out.

A Few Friendly Tips

- Shoot a whole roll even if some frames feel “wasted.” You learn faster that way.
- Write down the ISO and roughly what the light was like. It helps when the photos come back.
- Don’t chase perfection. Some of the best film photos have slight light leaks, soft focus, or unexpected colours.
- Carry the camera with you. The more you use it, the more natural it becomes.

Film photography rewards patience and curiosity more than gear or technical knowledge. Start simple, stay curious, and enjoy the process. The photos will follow.

Welcome to the slower side of photography. You’ll probably end up loving it.